Nocturnal Vision (digital collage by ©Despina Veneti)Īlthough ylang-ylang is a prominent ingredient, the fragrance is not predominantly floral. My guess is that the perfumer has used the Firmenich ylang-ylang oil, which by itself is redolent with spicy, even animalic connotations. It is instead lit by moonbeams a gleaming, yellow vision in the middle of the night, shining its guiding light in a tenebrous forest glade. ![]() Even though it communicates a distinctly nocturnal feeling, the ylang-ylang of L’Artisan Parfumeur 25 Obscuratio is still luminous – just not by sunlight. Amidst the dense, but nonetheless inviting, woods emerge a rather unexpected note of ylang-ylang: in one of the most crepuscular representations of the flower I’ve ever smelled, the ylang-ylang is stripped off its sunny disposition and banana-like undertones, with the focus being placed on its carnal, sensual aspects. The “olfactive pyramid” manifests somewhat reversed on my skin, with the expected base notes actually declaring a strong presence at “hello”, and the floral ones unfolding afterwards. L’Artisan Parfumeur 25 Obscuratio instantly captivates the wearer with an immensely pleasing blast of patchouli goodness: chocolatey, sweetly spiced, and hard to resist. Perfumer Daphné Bugey (courtesy of Firmenich), illustrator Katie Scott (.uk) & L’Artisan Parfumeur La Botanique displays at the brand’s Parisian boutique at rue Saint-Honoré (photos by ©Despina Veneti) ![]() After a long smelling session at the brand’s Parisian boutique at Rue Saint-Honoré, 25 Obscuratio emerged as my favorite among all six eaux de parfum of the collection: its winsome charm and olfactive immediacy appealed to me to the point of minor addiction: I simply could not resist wearing, or layering, the fragrance for days to come. The perfumer behind the two new fragrances is Daphné Bugey of Firmenich (composer of the initial collection, as well), while the packaging is now illustrated by Katie Scott, who has vividly depicted the collection’s theme: nature coming alive at night. The 2016-launched, and largely underdiscussed, “Natura Fabularis” collection of L’Artisan Parfumeur has recently been revamped by the historical House and relaunched under the name “La Botanique”, with two brand new creations – 63 Crepusculum Mirabile and 25 Obscuratio – substituting two of the older ones. L’Artisan Parfumeur 25 Obscuratio (photo by ©Despina Veneti)
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